So, if you are replacing the latch, load it up with grease - particularly at the bottom where it bolts to the bottom door frame. That is where water collects and contributes to the latch rusting. Where the latch is mounted with three bolts through the bottom is a very poor design. You still have to deal with the latch itself and any rust issues. It's a simple fix and everything will be working. That means that the solenoid will be loose in your rear door, so, use a tie-wrap or black electrical tape and secure it to any part of the door so that it isn't banging around. All you have to do is pull a small tab and twist it out of the latch mechanism - and never put it back in. If the first post is not clear: the solenoid is attached to the latch mechanism on a Ranger or Mazda B. When it is not in the latch mechanism, the pin is extended (to the solenoid, that means the door is closed and all of your electrical and electronics will work properly.) To get the door ajar issue resolved (and in your case get the overhead light and dash working properly, you will need to hook up a solenoid - just don't put the solenoid in the latch. A latch from a Ranger, Mazda B, or F-150 will work. You need the latch mechanism that is bolted to the bottom of the door to properly close your rear door. Now I'm back in a truck again (albeit one with no power windows, locks or mirrors that needs a bit of work), but it's not as nice as my 2001.everything worked on that truck & damn I miss it! I foolishly gave up that truck for a Honda Civic. I got a job that had me driving 120+ miles a day & they were only giving me a $75/week gas allowance. I used to have a 2001 Ranger XLT extended cab with flare sides & the 4.0. So if I replace my latches with the F-150 latches that will no longer be an issue, correct? The door ajar light is lit on the dash, which is quite annoying.as is not being able to use my dome light. I recently bought a 2000 Mazda B3000 and the previous owner removed the lower strikes as well as the bulbs from the dome light. If I understand this correctly, I think it may solve the issue I'm having. This will have absolutely no effect on your dome light, and the door ajar will never fire because of an open rear door - only open or ajar front door. Secure the wire by taping it to the latch cable and leave it dangling. Leave the solenoid plugged into the wiring, and do not replace it in the latch assembly. Perfect!! With the solenoid taken out of the latch assembly, the pin is "out" indicating the door is closed. You will notice that the solenoid trigger pin is "out" when the door is closed, and "in" when the door is open. Lift the plastic tab, turn the solenoid in the same direction as the location of the tab, and the solenoid comes out easily. The solenoid is held in place by a small plastic tab (see the picture, I have put a red square where it is located on the latch assembly). Which leads to the next solution: if your latches are working (catch on close and open properly), then you can easily bypass the door ajar solenoid on the rear doors. We already have a door ajar sensor for the front doors, who cares about the rear doors as long as they catch? Obviously Ford thinks the same way otherwise they would have put a sensor on the rear doors of the F-150, don't you think? Turns out that the rear door latch from that model year Ford F-150 is IDENTICAL to the Ford Ranger, with one exception: there is no solenoid switch included with the F-150 version. No four door Rangers, so I decided to pull the rear door latch off of a 2001 Ford F-150 and try to fab them. Rather than order new, I went to my local JY. I've found several solutions and I will share them with you.įirst off: if the problem is that your rear door latch is rusted out, you can try WD-40 or PB along with white lithium grease (or graphite based oil sprays) - however, it is likely that you will need to replace the latch. Like many others, I have had my share of grief from the "door ajar" light and problems closing the door properly (or opening).
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